October 27, 2013

Hanns-G Monitor Power Supply Fix Under $10

How to fix a Hanns-G HC194DP 19″ monitor’s power supply for $10 or less

Hanns-G Four of the new capacitorsYour Hanns-G monitor is not working. Your power light flashes, you hear a popping sound and yet the monitor does not come on right? This sounds familiar doesn’t it? Some time ago your monitor made some popping noise when you first turned it on but it would still turn on. Over time it took longer and longer to turn on and continued to make the popping noise. Now it will not turn on at all. Guess what…your monitor likely has a blown capacitor or eleven. The good news is this is an easy fix if you are confident with a soldering iron and disassembling sensitive electronics.

How To Fix Your Hanns-G Monitor Power Supply

At this point I am going to assume you are technically savvy if you are taking on disassembling a monitor’s power supply so I will only give you the details.

  1. Disassemble the monitor.
  2. Identify and remove the power supply board (see picture below).
  3. Identify the bad capacitors. They will have a “domed” top indicating that they have burst.
  4. Desolder bad capacitors and solder in the new capacitors (full list below the pictures).
    • Note that you can you a capacity with a higher voltage but the UF must be the same.
  5. Reassemble. If you forgot the plug locations for the power supply (like I did), see the picture below.

Power Supply Location

Hanns-G Power Supply Location

Bad Capacitor – “Domed” Top

Hanns-G Bad capacitors domed top

Power Supply Plug Locations

(not that we forgot where they go or anything like that)
Hanns-G Plug Locations

Full List of Capacitors

This is a full listing of all of the capacitors on the board except for the HUGE on which I am told rarely goes out. I only replaced six of the capacitors on my monitor based on the damage I observed.

Board Location – µF, Volts

  • C8 – 4.7µF, 50V
  • C10 – 47µF, 50V
  • C51 – 470µF, 25V
  • C52 – 470µF, 25V
  • C54 – 1000µF, 10V
  • C56 – 1000µF, 10V
  • C57 – 100µF, 25V
  • C59 – 100µF, 10V
  • C62 – 100µF, 25V
  • C101 – 220µF, 25V
  • C102 – 220µF, 25V

Where To Get The Parts Cheap

I recommend shopping Tayda Electronics. They are the cheapest place I have found any electronics such as capacitors, resistors, ICs, proto boards, and tons of other good stuff. They do not have the selection of an Adafruit or Digikey, but for what they do have it does not get any cheaper. I do not work for Tayday nor do I get any kind of referral compensation from them. They are just a vendor I been very pleased to work with. Thanks Tayda!



November 6, 2011

Arduino Engine Fan Controller

Yesterday I put a good part of my day into taking the next steps of having my Arduino power the cooling fan for my truck. This will likely be the same Arduino that will be the remote start too assuming it can handle multiple operations.  In the video below I demo the functional logic of the circuit with features an automatic temperature based control and a manual push button for those occasional 100* F Summer days. The next step is to wire this circuitry into the existing fan relays and remove the previous circuitry I built. I have nicknamed this project and the Remote GSM Car Starter the S10Duino.


August 14, 2011

Remote Car Starter

Remoter Starter Diagrams

Remoter Starter Diagrams

Today Matt and I worked on our remote car starter project. We are building a remote car starter using Arduino, an electronic prototyping platform. This is a completely original project, we are not starting with any set of plans or instructions. It is all custom built. The remote starter is going to address the challenge of most reasonably priced remote car starters…that being how to I start the car when I upwards of a 1/4 mile plus away? Or more importantly while I am comfortably sitting at my desk at work or in the lab. We are building our remote starter using a cell phone as the communication device between us and the vehicle. Our short term goal is to be able to start/stop the car by telephone. Long term the platform will be able to handle more complex operations such as texting, responding to queries for information, and preprogrammed operations like running for a set duration.

Today we focused on documenting the necessary logic to safely start the vehicle and gathering information on how we are going to interface with the car. Seeing as these are cars made by GM they do not exactly have an api we can interface with. No the “interface” we will be using is good old analogy signals via copper wire controlled by a digital logic via the Arduino. So once we documented the control logic we worked on identifying our copper interace elements. Thankfully most car’s electrical diagrams can be found online.

Our next steps are to start building our car “API”…in layman’s terms we are going to start soldering wires in that we can wire up to relays that will connect to a DB-9 connecter to interface with Arduino.